Відео

Si interesting. I Have one where the device works but the adhesive on the ribbon to the lcd has started to come off. Can you recommend a conductive adhesive glue that might help? Or maybe some other way. Regards in advance

This looks European. In the US of A, it's called Speak & Math, not Maths. Ours also has 2 screws at the bottom and the 4 clips at the top.

Any idea where I can get a replacement outer screen? Mine cracked.

Kapareha ng keyboard ko padala pa saken nun 1993 ng tatay ko

I have a bottle of black Japanese calligraphy ink for redying the speakers. That really makes a difference in the overall look imo

Hey, great job this sounds like it’s all based on Celestine Dessike's Words of Desire. And yes, that’s the material you need to have him resonating with erotic electricity at your will. Sounds like too much IK, but just for the basics it's worth go'ogling her ;)

all you did was unsolder and resolder the L key and it works now? WITCHCRAFT!

Hi there! Can you/anyone help me? Ive got a dragon 32 myself, and I read in several postings, in the history of this computer it happened, that they delivered 64k models with 32k on it, just to get anything sold, when theyve had problems in production. So, does anybody know how I can check this? How do I get to know? I bought mine in spain, and there had to be those computers being sold like that. I would be glad if anybody could help. THX - Anne

Don't forget to put your toothbrush overnight in a glass of water, if it still tastes funny try hot water with some Vanish oxi white.

Thanks for very helpful video! I have the same boombox. Rubber bands deteriorated and became sticky mess. Going to order new ones. Hopefully it will work!

I had this game back in the day. Made me want to buy one watching this

I have 2 Electrons, one of them had a couple keys stop working a few days after arriving. One solution I found it works great is to introduce a good amount of IPA to the inside of the key switch with a cotton tip, between the shaft and the enclosure of the key so that it soaks, and keep pressing repeatedly. It managed to clean the contacts and the key started working perfectly after that. After a while the IPA evaporates. The oxide or gunk that was on the contacts was displaced for good, it seems. Or until the next time... Saw this trick on another video about reparing one of these keyboards.

Just found your channel today from a comment on somebody else's channel lol! I really love what you do, seeing old tech get repaired is awesome!! I'm only 20 so seeing older stuff is always extremely fascinating especially with how simple yet complex things were made✨️

Good eye catching that short circuit! BTW, I really enjoy these DIY repair videos, very educational/inspirational for me to get started on a project.

Excelente video, me hubiera gustado un poco más detallado la parte del teclado. Me quedaron algunas dudas.

Come back on, Retro Tech Repair, and carry on playing!

tumari shop Kedar hi Plas bataaia mojko sa75 ka balak@ white kiss totgaa hi balk 15 what 22 ki hi😮

open tray is the exact same error I am getting with mine. Got the itch to Play my Mass Effect games and pulled the 360 out of storage collecting dust. Sometimes it reads, but today it doesn't. my Multimeter is MIA so I will be doing it the old fashioned way. mark a spot and track turns in a direction lol. it will work or it won't. I can play with it tonight and buy a disk reader if I fail.

Amazing repair! So glad you didn't give up on it.

I have the Coca Cola retheme of this from Franklin Mint, I think the circular lights thing is broken and I need to find a way to get into the machine- would this be essentially the same way of maintenance?

We had one when I was growing up 😭 Thank you for sharing this

I case it's useful info for anyone working on these... you don't need to jump any of the switches while testing. The only switch you need to operate is power and this is a logic-level toggle since the device seems to be always-on. You can just touch the switch briefly onto the pads in any position and it will toggle the device into any on-mode, or off. It will stay in that state that until you toggle a different state. No permanent jumpers required...

Thanks for sharing. I found my mother's old Realistic Concertmate 200. Seems to have the same issue. Alas, I don't have your patience or skill level to make the repair if mine has the same problem

Lmao the cologne dust teen ting, awesome video!!

Great video! In passing, you referenced another tutorial regarding key pressing, which one is that? I am trying to repair my black Entex Space Invaders from childhood and need some advice regarding the buttons; the rubbery material underlying the 'left' and 'right' movement buttons has disintigrated, such that they cannot be pressed and pop back up--hope that makes sense.

Well, I was going to try and fix mine but hearing the crt can kill my quicker than a Death Star enema I’ll try and find someone. Great video.

Bro it's shows on mine open tray

I have a pioneer LD player and all LDs stutter or have like a random hiccups when I play them. Nothing wrong with the discs. What can be the issue for this? Lens or something else??

Dude, THANK YOU for doing this. While my repairs aren't the same as yours, it was great to follow along with your logic. Got mine working, though it's not 100% just yet.

I have so many great memory's with this Keyboard 🥲

Hi, congratulations on your work, really nice. What type of electric motor is it? How many laps does he make?

Nice video Sir! I also have one where you hear the sound but can't see anything on the screen. What can it be? Thanks!

Hallo, iI think the 650 is very similar to the 740 D. My problem is the player doesn't play the discs. We had to repair the tray because it does not work propperly. Now this was fixed we recognized that the player does not read the discs. Any advice for me?

Those testers go into self-test mode when you short them across three pins, so it safe to assume that the component was indeed totally shorted

Hello, the game was running on batteries, but I wanted to check if it works on the power supply and I gave it 7 or 9 volts, I don't remember exactly, and something burned, I watched most of the repair videos on YT. I replaced several elements, such as NEC transistor 2SD882, 2SC945 C945, but it still doesn't work, and I don't know what to do anymore - I don't know how to check if the integrated circuit hasn't burned, hmmm. When I turn it on from the battery, the 2SD822 transistor burns out. Or it was completely damaged, but I have a glimmer of hope that it wasn't ;/ ehhhh, I'm an electronics engineer :)

I know this video is very old but my XBox got tipped over and hit the ground and now it won't read my disk so what should I do?

Dude, you're a talented guy and a great inspiration.

I have the same but it is called Epoch Astro Command

I had one of these as a kid, a long time ago back in the late 70's I think I would have had it. My Dad opened it up and added a connector up the top so we could plug it into a little black square transformer, so we didn't need to use batteries anymore. This one looks just like it, and there is a big question mark in my head whether this actual one is the one I had as a kid, as how many other Dad's out there would have done that for their son??

Interesting. We looked at speak and spell for the kids but when we tried one in the shop, it wasnt very clearly spoken, more like a ventrilloquist (G and B confusion) so it seemed a bit pointless to buy one. I suppose newer versions may have been more clearly spoken. Im always amazed at how little is inside these special machines once the coloured plastic case is removed compared with how much they were sold for .

I have the same model and the tray doesn't open. It power's up, but the tray doesn't open. Can you help?

As a kid, I got the 800 XL model, which, a bit later, got upgraded with the CompyShop RAM enhancement, adding a whopping 256 kB to the base 64 kB, a built-in custom version of TT-DOS, which could be loaded into RAM at boot by pressing a button added to the right side of the case, and three modes of operation (three-way switch added), Atari OS with 64 kB (compatibility mode), Atari OS with 320 kB (here that TT-DOS came in really handy) and the powerful Q-Meg OS mode). It was a bit of a pity I was unable to get the Turbo-BASIC XL chip as a replacement for the Atari BASIC, but thanks to the upgrades above and the excellent and reliable 1050, booting this powerful programming language into RAM was a matter of mere seconds. The only weak-point of the XL was actually its power supply, which tended to increase its voltage output over time, potentially frying the CPU - which hapenned to me once, after some 4 years of intense (almost) daily usage. But it could be remedied by using a good stock one, though, of course, soldering that custom connector was required. Now.. My friend had the 65 XE, which looked really cool (its design was fantastic and it really made this beast look like one of the ST-line models, at least to someone not familiar with these machines), but it also had a few drawbacks, when compared to its predecessor - the overall build quality was lower (it was already made during the Jack Tramiel era), the cartridge port was placed at a rather inconvenient location at the back of the case and the universally loved PBI was replaced by something called ECI, if I remeber it correctly, which was quite similar in its functionality, but physically incompatible. On the positive side, the OS was fine-tuned more than that on the XL machines, and the board design was much simplified (which already started on some of the later-produced XLs, where the FREDDY chip took over a lot of functions from stock chips). However, the true reason I have fond memories of the 65 XE in particular as well, are quite fancy - that friend of mine also had one game cartridge, that introduced me to a game, which, up to this very day, still occupies the number 1 spot on my personal greatest games ever list 🙂 The game was Star Raiders. Thumbs up for the video 😙

Please make new 360 video segments. We still need your help my good man.

Please add a warning to people in the description, not to remove the keyboard PCB unless you have to. There is almost nothing on it but the main cpu anyway. Best to not touch that side of the VL-1 unless you absolutely have to. They keep breaking because the ribbon to the lcd is so fragile.

My ex book is not working😊😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮

Thanks for the tips, I got one yesterday from market for 41 bucks It was working really well with great looking body and LCD fully functional no bad keys suddenly today it had crackling/quiet, on and off sound after I changed my batteries, I thought my batteries was bad but it's not I cleaned it up and end up made my LCD looking worst with missing numbers. and still couldn't fix it, Everything on the board looks fine and I don't wanna go so far as replacing chips sadly.

is there any way i can run a Dragon 32 rom inside of Return of coco?? the older coco emulator from 2000 or 2001? thanks......................

i typed in time clock face for the dragon 32 from dragon user today and it does not seem to work properly it crashes can i send one of u my program can any1 here code at all? can i send any1 my clock time program? thanks..............

Thanks so much for making this video. I just got the American Pinball version of this table and had some of the same issues as you. Seeing it opened up makes me feel more at ease about potentially repairing it myself. Did you find the spray lubrication helped to improve the bumper sensitivity? What lubricant did you use?